Day 10

We were farewelled from the Gur camp with the traditional mares milk and a spoonful on each tyre. The scenery has changed to hills similar to Queenstown area. The tracks have large puddles and we are trying to avoid them but the car is still totally covered in mud. The fuel pump has started a high pitch whine whenever the car is going. It is still going well but we will have to keep an eye on it. I have the old one in the boot. My average consumption is about 8km per litre. Much the same as the Landcruisers.

Today we visited a 13^th century Gur camp in the hills. It was very well done with people living in each of the gurs and you drive between them all as they are about a kilometre apart. There is a war post, Shamans post, Food Gur and herdsmens Gur. We tried archery, our first taste of fermented mares mlk – Yuk! So bad, definitely an acquired taste. George went for a ride on a camel and everyone dressed up in furs and weapons for photographs. Once again the tracks are pretty dicey. Fine for a 4wd but there were Mercedes sedans and your average vehicles up there too. You wonder how they do it. But we did see a couple stuck. There are normally 5-9 people in the cars anyway so they all get out and push.

We then headed for Ulan Bator. On the way you pass an enormous stainless steel statue of Genghis Khan on horseback. They love him here. It is in the middle of nowhere but very impressive. We then headed off for the 50km drive to UB. Wow. The worst roads I have ever seen in my life. Potholes that you could lose a whole wheel in. But people don’t slow down. They swerve all over the road at speed trying to avoid the holes into direct traffic and into you if you are passing. Doesn’t help that the stock wander all over the roads here too as they are not fenced.

Coming into UB was a vast contrast to where we had been. It’s a shit hole. Shocking roads, abandoned buildings, carcasses on the side of the road. We are staying the centre of town at Bayangol Hotel. Went for dinner around the corner in a bar/restaurant that was a bit like a night club. Lots of well dressed party Mongolians and a band. Dinner was a very civilised pickled vegetable salad followed by spaghetti cabonara and ice cream. Our cars are locked in a bus yard around the corner as security at the hotel is not good enough.